BRASSICA OLERACEA VARIETY EMMIFERA
Although there are references in the 13th and 15th centuries to plants that may have been Brussels sprouts, it’s more likely they were actually developed from cabbage in the 18th century. Gardeners knew that if you remove the main head of a cabbage plant, or broccoli, smaller heads will develop around the cut stem as long as the root stays intact in the ground. This feature of cabbage plants was selected for and bred until the Brussels sprout was developed—a plant that forms a group of large leaves at the top of the stalk but develops small heads in each of the leaf axils that stud the
elongated stalk.
They didn’t really become a farmed crop until the early 20th century—before that, Brussels sprouts were edible oddities of home gardens. Thomas Jefferson, that indefatigable home gardener, grew them at Monticello in 1812, according to his notebook.
NUTRITION
Brussels sprouts are a good source of fiber, antioxidants, and potassium. Just 1⁄2 cup contains about 50 milligrams of vitamin C; 12 percent of the daily requirement of folic acid; 6 to 12 percent of iron (6 for female plants and 12 for male); 11 percent of B6, plus good stores of vitamin A and thiamin.
TYPES
There are many excellent varieties of Brussels sprouts all cultivated varieties of the species.
SEASONALITY
Brussels sprout season is fall and winter. The sprouts are especially good after a few hard frosts. Like kale and other hardy members of the cabbage family, a good stab of freezing weather sweetens them up. Sprouts are at their finest between Thanksgiving and the first day of spring.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Like all the cabbage family members, Brussels sprouts contain a lot of sulfur in the form of sulforaphane, which turns them stinky if they’re too old or overcooked. Any yellowing of stalk or sprouts means they’re too old, with consequent bitterness and toughness. The solution is to buy young, small sprouts (2⁄3 to 1 inch in diameter) that are tightly formed and have a lively green color (whether blue-green, light green, or dark green).
The problem with shopping for Brussels sprouts is that it can be hard to find small, young sprouts at supermarkets, even in the organic department. Most Brussels sprouts are frozen and sold by packers, and they want sprouts that are between the standard 3⁄4 and 13⁄8 inches. Sprouts for the fresh market tend to be the frozen market’s rejects—bigger, older, stinkier, and tougher.
The place to find those tender young sprouts is at the farmers’ markets. These sprouts are likely going to be modern hybrids from the Netherlands and other northern European plant breeders—sweet, mild, tender varieties that have replaced the bitter packers’ varieties. Many farmers’ markets close for the winter just at the time when sprouts are best. But not all do, so it pays to look around for markets that are open all year. Also, large organic and natural food markets such as Whole Foods often carry organic produce in season, right through the winter.
Sprouts don’t store well; they lose their sweetness and tenderness within a few days of being picked, so make sure those you buy are no more than an inch or slightly more in diameter. Check the cut where they were removed from the stem. It should look freshly cut, with no yellowing or drying.
KEEP AN EYE OUT FOR SPROUTS ON THE STALK
Sprouts store well on the stalk, lasting a couple of weeks or more if kept very cool. It may be hard to find sprouts on the stalk, but it’s worth a try. If you do find them, the stalks should be green, with no yellowing.
PREPARATION
To prepare Brussels sprouts for cooking, first soak them in salted water to which a bit of vinegar has been added—this dislodges any hitchhikers that may have come aboard in the organic garden.
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