This version of the classic Spanish rice dish comes from my friend Max Cohen, who served it at a party for his neighbors in Minisink Hills, Pennsylvania, in 1964. I never forgot that wonderful party—or the incredible paella he served. When the time came to serve the paella, Max produced a huge pan about 11/2 feet in diameter heaped with mounds of steaming, fluffy yellow rice redolent of saffron. The rice was studded with grilled chicken, shrimp, clams in their shells, lobster chunks, peas, bits of sausage, onions, and tomatoes. I thought it was the best plate of food I’d ever had. The recipe is updated—sugar snap peas hadn’t been developed in 1964.
SERVINGS
Serves 6
INGREDIENTS
1 live 11/2-pound lobster
1/2 pound medium shrimp, shelled and deveined, shells reserved
1 tablespoon tomato paste
3 tablespoons brandy
1 pound smoked ham hock
2 bone-in chicken breasts
3 chicken thighs
3 chicken legs
1 medium onion, minced
1 large clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup peeled, seeded, and chopped tomatoes
11/2 cups Arborio rice
1 teaspoon paprika
1/4 teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 little neck clams
8 black mussels, debearded
1/4 cup shelled fresh peas
4 ounces sugar snap peas
PREPARATION
1. Get a large pot of water boiling. Plunge the lobster’s head into it, holding the beast upside down after removing the rubber bands on its claws. The lobster will die peacefully without tensing up, as it would if the whole body was dropped into the boil. Once the lobster has stopped moving, drop it into the pot and cook for 2 minutes. Drain and let cool slightly. Then remove the meat from the tail and claws. Reserve the shells. Cut the tail meat into 4 equal pieces.
2. Heat 1 cup of water in a very large saucepan. Add the lobster and shrimp shells and cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. If it appears that the water will boil away, add another half cup. Add the tomato paste, stir it in, and cook for another 2 minutes. Add the brandy, ignite it, and cook until the flames go out. Remove from heat, strain out the shells, and return the liquid to the pot. Add the ham hock and 8 cups of water and bring it to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for 45 minutes, or until the stock is reduced by half. Remove the ham hock and cut half of the lean meat off the bone and reserve. Strain the broth and skim off any fat; keep the broth warm.
3. On a grill (or under the broiler), cook the chicken breasts, legs, and thighs until fully cooked. When done, remove the skin.
4. ....read more
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