This hot sauce originated in Tunisi but has become the staple flavoring agent for many North African dishes. You can buy it canned or in tubes at many Middle Eastern markets, but it tastes best when homemade and will last in the fridge up to six months. You can vary the level of pungency by choosing different varieties of chiles. For a good, hot harissa—the way the Moroccans like it—use dried pasillas or chipotles, and if you want to maximize the burn, include a dried habanero or two.

SERVINGS

Makes about 1 cup

INGREDIENTS

12 dried chiles, sliced in half, seeds removed, and roughly chopped

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for storage

1 teaspoon ground cumin

4 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

Salt to taste

PREPARATION

1.    Soak the pieces of chile in warm water for 30 minutes, until they soften. Drain and place the chiles in a blender with the olive oil, cumin, garlic, and salt.

2.    Blend until a smooth paste is formed. Put the paste into a small jar and float 1/4 inch of olive oil on top. Cap and refrigerate.