Hazel Hardebeck’s (my mom’s) coleslaw was always the best among family and friends. She hailed from Covington, Kentucky, and showed her German heritage in this dish. Alas, she never divulged her recipe. This version, the closest approximation, comes from Carlos at Nicola’s Delicatessen in Calistoga, Califor-nia. Hazel would have approved.

SERVINGS

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

1 medium head savoy cabbage

1 carrot, peeled and grated

1/2 red bell pepper, minced

FOR THE DRESSING

11/2 cups mayonnaise

1/2 teaspoon celery seed

1/2 cup white vinegar

1/2 cup sugar

PREPARATION

1.    Remove any coarse or damaged outer leaves from the cabbage. Quarter and core the cabbage, and slice it as thin as you possibly can, using a mandoline if you have one. Place the sliced cabbage in a large bowl of ice water for 1 hour.

2.    Drain the cabbage and pat dry. Place in a large bowl and add the carrot and red pepper.

3.    In a separate bowl combine the mayonnaise, celery seed, and vinegar. Slowly add the sugar, a little at a time. After each addition, mix until the sugar is dissolved, then taste. You’ve added enough when neither mayonnaise nor sugar dominates, but the whole becomes an integrated flavor.

4.    Use half the mixture to dress the cabbage mixture and reserve the rest for the next batch. (It will last a week in the fridge.) Toss to mix thoroughly. Serve immediately.