Rick Bayless, the renowned chef and owner of Frontera Grill and Topolobampo in Chicago, gave me this recipe, writing, “There’s something about this creamy combination of greens and green chiles that I want to taste time and again.”

SERVINGS

Makes 16 to 18 tacos

INGREDIENTS

4 medium-large fresh poblano chiles (about 3 ounces each)

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 medium white onion, sliced 1/4 inch thick

2 cloves garlic, chopped fine

1/4 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican

1/8 teaspoon dried thyme

16 to 18 corn tortillas (plus a few extra, in case some break)

3/4 cup chicken stock

3 medium red potatoes (about 10 ounces), cut into

1/2-inch cubes

1 (12-ounce) bunch chard, leaves only, sliced 1/2 inch thick (6 cups, loosely packed)

2/3 cup heavy cream or crème fraîche

1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste

2/3 cup crumbled Mexican queso fresco or pressed,

salted farmer’s cheese

PREPARATION

1.    Roast the chiles directly over a gas flame or 4 inches below a very hot broiler until blackened on all sides, about 5 minutes for open flame or 10 minutes for broiler. Remove from the heat, cover with a kitchen towel and let stand 5 minutes. Peel, pull out the stem and seed pod, then rinse briefly. Slice into 1/4-inch strips and reserve.

2.    In a 10- to 12-inch skillet, heat the oil over medium heat, then add the onion, stirring often until nicely browned but still a little crunchy, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, oregano, and thyme, toss a minute longer, stir in the chile strips, and remove from heat.

3.    To warm the tortillas, set up two vegetable steamers with 1/2 inch of water under the steamer basket; bring to a boil. Make two stacks of the tortillas and wrap them in heavy kitchen towels, lay them in the steamers and cover tightly. Heat for 1 minute, then turn off the heat and let stand without opening for 15 minutes.

4.    While the tortillas are steaming, prepare the filling. In a small saucepan, combine the chicken stock and potatoes, cover, bring to a simmer and cook over medium-low heat until nearly tender, about 15 minutes. Pour the potatoes and stock into the pan with the chiles, mix in the chard, bring to a boil over medium-high heat and cook until the stock has evaporated, about 4 minutes. Mix in the cream and continue to boil, stirring regularly, until the cream is reduced enough to coat the mixture nicely. Taste and season with salt.

5.    Scoop the mixture into a deep, warm serving dish, sprinkle with the cheese and serve immediately with the warm tortillas. Your guests can assemble the tacos for themselves at the table.