CYDONIA OBLONGA
Quinces, while still fairly rare, are popping up more and more at farmers’ markets and roadside stands. They are much more frequently used in Europe and are common ingredients in the northern range of the Middle East, from Turkey to Iran, where they are autochthonous. Persian cooking, especially, uses them in its meat-and-fruit dishes.
The Organic Factor
Most quinces are someone’s backyard fruit and will likely be found only at farmers’ markets or roadside stands. They may not be certified organic, but almost assuredly will not have been treated with agricultural chemicals. Ask the purveyor about their provenance just in case, but few insects or diseases attack a small stand of backyard quinces.
NUTRITION
Quinces have some dietary fiber, good stores of vitamin C, and some iron.
SEASONALITY
Quince season runs from October to December.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Like apples, quinces will last for weeks until they soften and turn brown and eventually become unuseable.
STORAGE
Store quinces at room temperature until they are fully ripened, yellow all over, and emit a sweet aroma. Then use them quickly before they become mealy, or refrigerate for a couple of weeks. Store them away from apples and pears because their aroma can affect the other fruits.
USES
When cooked and sweetened, quince softens and turns a pinkish color, developing a fine fragrance and a delicious flavor. It’s used for jams, preserves, and marmalades, it’s stewed with meats, made into pastes. Or throw in a quince the next time you make apple or pear sauce.
Since classical times, quinces have been used to make sweetmeats or candies to be served at the end of a fine meal. The first marmalades were made from quince. Because the fruit has great amounts of pectin, it can be boiled with sugar and then poured into little molds of varying shapes or rounds. These confection-like jellies are called cotignac in France, membrillo in Spain, cotognata in Italy. They’re usually coated with sugar for a dessert; plain, they make a perfect accompaniment to cheese and wine.
VARIETY
It’s hard enough just finding quince these days, but they are experiencing a resurgence of interest. If you know a grower, see if you can find one of these choice varieties.
Aromatnaya—Recent import from Russia; excellent quality; fragrant.
Orange—Variety for cold regions that turns red when cooked.
Pineapple—A Luther Burbank introduction with hint of pineapple.
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