The mangosteen must be included in this book because of its reputation as the most delicious fruit in the world. It grows primarily in Southeast Asia and the Philippines, and during its summer season it sometimes shows up in Asian markets in Canada and Europe. I found it just once in a Chinatown market in San Francisco, and I tried it with great anticipation. But, alas, it had been frozen and the pulp inside had gone off. I have also found it canned, but it was indistinguishable from canned litchi. Julia Morton, in her survey of the world’s tropical fruits, says that the pasteurization needed for canning kills the fruit’s delicate flavor. Freezing does, too. The USDA bans the importation of mangosteen from Southeast Asia because they may harbor pests, but the USDA doesn’t know which ones. “Better safe than sorry” is the USDA rationale for banning them. They can be imported from the Caribbean, but no one is growing them there for export. Some growers are beginning to experiment with mangosteen culture in Hawaii—so keep your eye out for them.

 

I keep looking for fresh mangosteen. The season for mangosteen is between June and September, so that’s the time to haunt your Asian markets. Keep your eyes peeled for dark purple fruits about the size and shape of a tennis ball or baseball. One cuts off the top half of the fruit’s shell with a sharp knife, exposing five, six, or seven white segments loosely held in the bottom half, or cup. These are very sweet with about 15 percent sugar and a lovely flavor (so I hear). It’s extremely unlikely you’ll find this coveted fruit at a farmers’ market.