I’VE BEGUN TO SEE the little European wild strawberries called fraise des bois—wood or Alpine strawberries (Fragaria vesca)—in farmers’ markets, but only occasionally. Like the native American wildings, they have a rich, intense fragrance and flavor that’s irresistible. If you’re lucky enough to have a good source of these or of native wild strawberries (Fragaria virginiana), consider making strawberry wine. A friend of mine went on a picking spree and made several gallons from virginianas, and it was a rare, heady, syrupy wine, best taken in small Port glasses or poured over vanilla ice cream.